Emerald Bay is the most photographed corner of Lake Tahoe, and it earns the attention. On the southwest shore, a narrow glacial inlet of green and blue water cuts into the granite, with a tiny rocky island, Fannette, sitting in the middle like a lid. Lake Tahoe itself is enormous and cold, sitting at roughly 1,900 metres in the Sierra Nevada and among the deepest and clearest lakes in North America. In calm weather the water is a startling shade of turquoise near the shore and deep indigo further out.
Down at the water's edge stands Vikingsholm, a mansion built in the late 1920s by a wealthy woman who wanted a Scandinavian castle on the lake, inspired by medieval Norse architecture, with sod roofs and carved timber. It is open for tours in summer, reached by a steep path from the highway car park, about a mile each way, which is a long climb back up in riding boots. Nearby, Eagle Falls tumbles down the rock, and the bay has been recognised as a National Natural Landmark.
The road is the famous California 89, which climbs and winds around the bay on a ledge cut into the cliff. Corners are fun, with views of the water at nearly every bend, but the road is narrow, traffic is heavy in summer, and cars and tourists stop suddenly at the viewpoints. Rockfall and snow can close the highway in winter and spring, so check conditions before you ride. Go early in the morning, in late September or on a weekday to have a more peaceful time, and watch out for cyclists.
Parking at the main viewpoint is limited and fills quickly in summer, so patience is required. A few cafes near the viewpoints sell coffee and snacks. Weather can change quickly at this altitude, with cold evenings even in July, so bring a jacket. If the light is right, a few minutes at the rail will explain why people keep coming back.