The Matarraña, or Matarranya in Catalan, is a river that runs from the high ground of the Ports de Beseit through southern Teruel and down toward the Ebro, and its valley is one of the most appealing corners of inland Spain. Els Gascons lies nine kilometres from Valderrobres and seven from Calaceite, in a country of olive groves, almond terraces and low stone walls. The painted shelters here are among the eastern outliers of the Levantine art that UNESCO listed in 1998, and the catalogue includes names such as Valcomuna and Albi, which turn up in this route.
Calaceite is a handsome small town with arcaded streets, and it has a link with the earlier Iberians: the nearby site of the Tossal Redó, a fortified settlement from the first millennium BC, shows how long this country has been inhabited. Valderrobres is the show-off of the district, with a medieval stone bridge, a fortified gate and a castle-church ensemble reflected in the river, and every visitor who passes through takes a photograph of it. The valley is sometimes called the Spanish Tuscany, a comparison that works only in part, but the ochre light and rows of olive trees give it a similar feel.
For riders, the Matarraña is the surprise of the north-east. The roads are narrow and tightly wound, with gentle gradients and long views, and in the Ports de Beseit they rise into limestone mountains where griffon vultures soar above the road. Olive oil of excellent quality is produced in the area, and many farms sell it directly. The best time is spring or autumn, and you should avoid the hot hours in July.
Fuel is not a problem if you plan a little, because Alcañiz, twenty-eight kilometres away, is a sizeable town. It is also home to Motorland Aragón, a racing circuit that holds a round of the MotoGP world championship, so the town is used to motorcyclists and the pumps are numerous. Calaceite and Valderrobres have bars and restaurants, and a good lunch of lamb, local vegetables and a glass of the strong local oil on bread is cheap by European standards.