The boat leaves from the Gateway of India in Mumbai and takes about an hour to cross the harbour, passing warships, container ships and fishing boats, to a green island of rock and trees where, in the sixth century or thereabouts, a group of sculptors carved a temple into the hill. Elephanta Caves, as the Portuguese called them after a giant stone elephant they found near the landing, hold a collection of Hindu rock-cut temples dedicated to Shiva. The great cave contains huge carved panels, and the most famous is the Trimurti, a six-metre-high three-faced bust of Shiva as creator, preserver and destroyer. The sculptures were damaged by soldiers and time, but they still have an extraordinary force.
A climb of about a hundred and twenty steps leads from the pier to the caves, past stalls selling souvenirs and cold drinks. Monkeys live on the island and are happy to take food from tourists, so be careful. The caves are closed on Mondays, and the last boat back leaves in the afternoon, so check times in advance. The island was listed by UNESCO in 1987.
Riding to this place is a matter of getting to the harbour. Bikes cannot go on the ferry, so you leave yours at the Gateway of India, in a parking area, or at the mainland ports on the other side. The roads through Mumbai are crowded, noisy and fast, and a rider needs to be alert for buses, autorickshaws and pedestrians. The long sea bridge linking Mumbai with Navi Mumbai, the Atal Setu, does not allow two-wheelers, so the way to the Uran side is by the older roads along the harbour. The monsoon, between June and September, brings heavy rain and flooding, and the sea can be too rough for the ferry.
Uran, with twenty-five thousand people, has fuel and food, and the Navi Mumbai area has a big range of services. Raigad, on this ride, is the hill fort that was the capital of Shivaji's kingdom, farther south.
The best time to visit is between November and February, when the weather is cool and the sky is clear. Take water and sun protection, and wear shoes that grip on the steps.