Jabal AlFil rises out of the desert floor north of AlUla as a lone sandstone pillar, some fifty metres tall, balanced on a narrow neck of rock so that from the right angle it looks like an elephant lifting its trunk to the sky. Wind and sand have been working at it for millions of years, and the result is so convincing that people stop their cars in the middle of the road. It is the symbol of this part of Saudi Arabia, and sunset here is a ritual.
AlUla lies in a broad valley of sandstone cliffs and palm groves in the north-west of the kingdom, and the rocks here are astonishing. The cliffs are rust, orange and cream, carved by erosion into mesas, arches and towers, and the colours change through the day. Sand drifts against the base of the rock, the air is dry and clean, and the desert silence is complete when the wind drops. The land was once a major stop on the incense route, which carried frankincense and spices from southern Arabia toward the Mediterranean, and the oasis that made that possible still lies close by.
The road to the rock is smooth and wide, and the ride from AlUla is short and easy, with desert views opening in all directions. Surfaces are generally good, though sand can blow across the tarmac, particularly on windy afternoons, and a loose patch at a turning can catch you out. Heat is the real concern. Summer temperatures are brutal, so ride in the cooler months from about October to March, and even then start early or come in the late afternoon. Carry plenty of water, wear sun protection and do not underestimate the dryness.
Facilities near the rock have grown with tourism, and there may be cafés and a small seating area, but offerings change, so do not depend on them. AlUla town, about twelve kilometres away, has fuel, shops and restaurants, and you should fill up there before heading out. Respect local rules on photography and behaviour, particularly around heritage sites, and dress modestly.
Stay for the light. When the sun drops, the rock turns deep red, and the shadows run long across the sand.