El Retiro is the sort of Antioquian mountain town where people from Medellín come to eat lunch and then pretend to consider moving. It lies on the plateau east of the city, in cool, green country at over two thousand metres, with a tidy square, a church, a handful of craft shops and a mood of unhurried prosperity. The surrounding hills are a patchwork of farms, flower nurseries and weekend homes, and the climate is a relief after the heat of the valley, though it can be damp and misty.
The town has a reputation for woodwork. Carpenters here make furniture and decorative pieces, and you will find workshops and shops selling tables, chairs and carved details along the roads into town. It also has a strong tradition of local cooking, with restaurants serving trout, grilled meat and thick soups. On weekends, the main square fills with families and riders, and the pace of life gently speeds up.
The ride from Medellín over Las Palmas and down toward Retiro is a satisfying one. The road drops from the high ridge into the plateau in a series of bends, passing through farmland and pine woods, with views of green hills fading into mist. After the climb, the surface is generally good, and the traffic is mostly local cars and farm vehicles. From Retiro, roads lead to La Ceja, a larger town with more shops, and toward Rionegro, with more roads into the hills for those who want to keep exploring. Some side roads are narrower and rougher, and landslides can occur after heavy rain.
El Retiro has about eight thousand people, enough to have fuel, a bank and supermarkets, so it is a practical place to rest and refuel. If you need more services, La Ceja, a few kilometres away, is bigger. The local bakeries sell fresh bread and sweet treats, and a hot chocolate with cheese, a Colombian habit that sounds odd until you try it, is a common order on cool mornings.
The rain here is regular, and sudden showers are normal, so a waterproof layer is more than a precaution. Sunshine comes in bright spells, making the hills look washed and the colours deep.