Few riders have heard of the Serra de Mariola, and that is a pity, because this little limestone range between Alcoi, Bocairent and Ontinyent is one of the most rewarding corners of inland Valencia. El Pantanet, near the village of Alfafara, is a small rock shelter with prehistoric paintings, one of the many sites in the UNESCO listing of the Rock Art of the Mediterranean Basin on the Iberian Peninsula. As with most of its sisters, it is protected and access may be limited, but the hills around it reward the trip on their own.
The Mariola is famous for its aromatic plants: thyme, rosemary, sage, lavender and dozens of others, used for centuries in folk medicine and in herbero, a herbal liqueur made in the villages. On a warm day, the scent of the hills is intoxicating. The range is also dotted with old snow wells, deep stone pits where snow was packed in winter and turned into ice, then carried down to the coastal towns in summer for food preservation and cooling drinks. The village of Agres, with its sanctuary perched on the hillside, is a good starting point for walks up to the snow wells and the summit of the Montcabrer.
The riding is excellent. The roads that connect the villages of the Mariola, such as Alfafara, Agres, Bocairent and Alcoi, wind through valleys and over passes, with tight curves, steep climbs and fantastic views. Bocairent, a short ride west, is a dramatic village built on a rocky spur, with medieval caves carved into the cliff face. The roads are generally in good condition, with little traffic, but watch for cyclists and the occasional goat. Summer is hot, and winters can be surprisingly cold in the hills.
Ontinyent, five kilometres away, is a textile town of nearly thirty-eight thousand with fuel, shops and restaurants. Alfafara and Agres are small villages with a few bars and inns. Try the local dishes, such as olleta, a hearty bean stew, or arròs al forn, baked rice with chickpeas and sausage. Finish with a shot of herbero to settle the stomach before heading on.