El Calafate is a small town on the southern shore of Lago Argentino, and it is almost entirely about one thing: the ice. Eighty kilometres west, in Los Glaciares National Park, the Perito Moreno Glacier pushes out of the Andes into the lake in a wall of blue ice about five kilometres wide, rising to some seventy metres above the water. Unlike most glaciers it is relatively stable, and every few years it advances far enough to dam an arm of the lake, until the pressure of water breaks through in a roaring collapse. Watching blocks of ice calve from the face and crash into the lake, with a sound like thunder delayed by a second, is one of the great sights of Patagonia.
The town itself is a pleasant base, with wooden buildings, restaurants serving lamb roasted over open fires and shops selling chocolate and woollens. It takes its name from the calafate bush, whose dark berries are made into jam and ice cream, and local legend says that anyone who eats them will return to Patagonia. Nearby, the Laguna Nimez nature reserve shelters flamingos, geese and other birds on the lake shore.
The ride here, on the Ruta 40 through Patagonia, is a test of endurance more than technique. The wind is relentless, often blowing at gale strength across the open steppe, and it is the main challenge for riders, pushing bikes sideways and making long straights exhausting. Distances between towns are large, and fuel is spread thin, so fill the tank at every opportunity. Parts of the route are gravel, though much has been paved in recent years, and sudden weather changes can bring rain, sleet or even snow in summer.
Calafate itself has everything a traveller needs, including several stations, supermarkets, banks and workshops, and an airport that brings in visitors from around the world. The best time is from November to March, with long daylight hours and warmer temperatures. Even then, bring warm gear and a windproof layer.