The Eglinton Valley is a long, flat-floored glacial trough in the heart of Fiordland, and the Milford Road runs straight down the middle of it for kilometres. The valley is walled by steep mountains, covered at their feet in red and silver beech forest and, higher, in bare grey rock, and the valley floor itself is a mosaic of golden tussock flats, meandering streams and clear pools. The effect is wide, quiet and impressive, and the road seems to disappear into the distance between the peaks.
There are a handful of stops that are worth the time. The Mirror Lakes, a short walk from the road, reflect the mountains in still water on a calm day, and a boardwalk makes the visit easy. Lake Gunn, further along, is a beech-lined lake with a short nature walk, and the camping grounds beside the road, simple and cheap, are popular with those who want to wake up in the valley. At Knobs Flat the valley opens into broad meadows where deer graze at dusk.
For a rider, the Eglinton is a pleasure. After the long, fast approach from Te Anau, the road is flat and smooth, with only a few gentle bends, and it gives you time to look around. The corners begin at the head of the valley, where the road climbs toward The Divide and the road to Homer Tunnel. Traffic is steady, with coaches and camper vans, and frost and ice can linger in the shade, so be careful on cold mornings. The weather turns quickly, and you can ride from sunshine into rain within minutes.
Food is scarce, so bring a lunch and a flask. The kea, the cheeky alpine parrot, is common at the road's end, and will pull at your luggage if you give it a chance. Sandflies are fierce around the lakes, so carry repellent. In the early morning, mist hangs in the valley and the first light turns the tussock gold.