Egilsstaðir is the main town of east Iceland, set at the head of Lagarfljót, a long, dark glacial lake, with the Fljótsdalshérað plain spreading around it. For anyone riding the Ring Road around the island, it comes as a pleasant change after the empty highlands of the northeast, because suddenly there are trees. Iceland's largest forest, Hallormsstaðaskógur, grows along the lake's eastern shore, and the town has shops, a swimming pool and a handful of cafes.
The road here, Route 1, crosses the high plateau from Mývatn before descending into the valley, and it can be a harsh stretch. Wind is the main hazard. Gusts across the open ground can be strong enough to push a heavily loaded bike sideways, and fog and rain can reduce visibility quickly. Surfaces are generally good tarmac, but gravel sections and sudden changes can appear, and frost is possible outside summer. The best season for riding is roughly June to August, when the roads are clear and the days are very long.
Local legend adds a bit of colour. Lagarfljót is said to hold a serpent-like creature, the Lagarfljótsormur, and sightings have been reported for centuries. Whether you believe it or not, the lake has a calm, deep stillness that suits the story. From the town you can also drive toward the fjords to the east, with Seyðisfjörður, a steep-sided fjord with a ferry link to Europe, reached by a dramatic pass.
Fuel is not a concern here. Egilsstaðir, with its population of a couple of thousand, has stations, and the next ones toward the coast are at Reyðarfjörður and Eskifjörður, about thirty kilometres away, so fill up if you are heading to the fjords. In the empty stretches across the highlands, stations are far apart, so never let the tank fall below half.
This is a good place to rest, eat properly and check the forecast before the next leg. After the bare plateaus, the green valley and the calm lake feel almost gentle.