In central Gabon, where the rainforest breaks up into patches of open savanna, the Ogooué river bends through a landscape that has been a meeting place for about as long as people have crossed Africa. The long official name belongs to the Ecosystem and Relict Cultural Landscape of Lopé-Okanda, a UNESCO mixed site listed in 2007 for both its nature and its human story. The forest here is not a solid green wall. It shifts between thick canopy and grassy clearings, giving animals an unusually rich mix of habitats.
That mix is the reason the park is so good for wildlife. Lopé holds one of the largest populations of mandrills in the world, with troops sometimes reaching into the hundreds, the males painted in startling blue and scarlet. Forest elephants, buffalo, gorillas and chimpanzees live in the trees and clearings too, and the Ogooué has hippos in places. The air is humid, scented with damp earth and flowers, and the dawn chorus of birds can be remarkable.
The human story is carved in the rocks. At sites in the park, hundreds of petroglyphs were left by ancient peoples, and archaeologists have found evidence of iron-working and trade. The valley is thought to have been a corridor for the Bantu migrations that spread across central and southern Africa over the last couple of thousand years. In other words, the savanna and river here were a crossroads long before there was a road.
Do not expect smooth riding. The main route from Libreville toward the interior is paved for long stretches, but the quality varies and the rainy seasons, roughly from October to December and from February to May, bring flooding and potholes. The Trans-Gabon railway, which carries the manganese and timber, passes through the area, and the station at Lopé is a notable point in the park. Fuel is limited in this part of the country, so fill up in the larger towns on the way and carry a reserve. Villages offer simple food, and lodges near the park can arrange guides for walks and drives. The driest months, roughly June to August, are the best for wildlife and the easiest for travel.