Ebbetts Pass is one of the narrowest, steepest and least-visited paved passes in the Sierra Nevada, and for that reason it is a favourite with riders who like their mountains a bit raw. It tops out at 2,663 metres, on Highway 4 between the western foothills and the eastern desert, and the road that climbs it is a patchwork of single-lane sections, tight hairpins, steep gradients and rough surfaces. It was named for Major John Ebbetts, who explored the route in the 1850s hoping to find a place for a railway, and the railway never came, which is why the road is the way it is.
The east side is the steeper and the more dramatic. The road clings to the mountainside, with grades that reach well over ten percent in places, and the lanes are so narrow that oncoming cars can feel like a negotiation. There are stretches with no centre line, no guard rail, and long drops, and the road passes the high, bare ridges of the Carson-Iceberg country and the emerald water of the Kinney Reservoirs. Take it slowly, stay well to the right on the blind bends, and use engine braking on the descent. Caravans and trailers are discouraged, and for good reason.
The pass is open only in summer, usually from late May or June until the first big snows, and storms can bring ice or snow at any time of the year. Summer is warm during the day and cool at night, and afternoon thunderstorms are possible. The high country is full of granite, wildflower meadows and small lakes, and Pacific Crest Trail hikers cross the road nearby, so watch for them. The summit itself is a quiet saddle, with a sign and a view over snow patches into the next valley.
There is nothing at the pass. Fuel and food are in Markleeville to the east, a tiny county seat with a few cafes and a famous cycling event, or at Gardnerville in the Carson Valley, which is bigger. On the west side, Arnold is the last good place. Keep a close eye on your fuel gauge, because distances are long, and carry water. If you can, choose a weekday and an early start, so you meet few other vehicles and have the light behind you in the afternoon.