Breiðdalsvík is one of those East Iceland villages that feels as if the road has paused to catch its breath. It sits at the mouth of the Breiðdalur valley, a broad, green trough running inland between steep walls of dark rock, with a small harbour, a few streets and a population of a few hundred. The Eastfjords are the oldest part of Iceland, and the mountains here are layered like a stack of burnt toast, striped with the lava flows of millions of years.
For geologists, the valley is a treasure. A local centre named after a Scottish geologist who spent decades mapping the area tells the story of the ancient volcano that once stood here, whose eroded roots now form the colourful hills. You can read the rock like a book, with bands of red, ochre and black marking different eruptions. Even if you know nothing about geology, the colours are striking, especially in low sun.
The ride in is a pleasure. From the south the Ring Road winds around headland after headland, with sea cliffs and small bays, and the bends are gentle and open. From the north it comes through the valley of the Breiðdalur river, with farms and sheep and the occasional waterfall. The road is generally well kept, but there are single-lane bridges, so slow down and watch for oncoming traffic. Fog is common here in summer, and the temperature can drop fast.
The villagers live mainly from fishing and a little farming, and the harbour has a few small boats. A fish factory once dominated life here, and the old buildings of the district hint at a busier past. In summer there is a small cafe and a shop, with a certain charm about a place that is not trying too hard.
Larger settlements are some distance away, Reyðarfjörður and Eskifjörður to the north, so use the time here to walk and look. Bring a wind-proof layer, and expect the weather to change.