Chenggong is a small fishing port halfway down the east coast, and the nearby Sanxiantai is one of the great sights of Highway 11. A small island of rock lying just off the coast, it is connected to the shore by a long, curving footbridge with eight arches, like a dragon undulating across the sea. According to legend, three immortals once rested on the island, and the name means Three Immortals Platform. The reefs around it are rich with coral, and snorkelling and diving are possible when the sea is calm.
Chenggong itself is known for its fish. The harbour is lively in the early morning when the boats come in with marlin, swordfish and mahi-mahi, and the fish market sells fresh sashimi and grilled fish. In summer, locals hold the traditional method of harpoon fishing for swordfish, a sight that still attracts spectators. Many restaurants along the waterfront serve fish cooked simply, with rice and soup, and are popular with riders and cyclists.
The road here is a smooth, scenic ride, with the sea at your side for most of the way. The curves are gentle and the surface good, but traffic includes cyclists, scooters, tour buses and trucks, and some drivers overtake in unexpected places. In the afternoon, wind can blow strongly, and in typhoon season the road can be closed for repairs or landslides. The Pacific light is clear, and the horizon stretches endlessly.
Fuel is available in Chenggong, and there are convenience stores and cafes. Taitung, the next big city, is about fifty kilometres to the south. The climate is subtropical, with a long warm season. The best months are October to April, when the weather is mild and dry. Plan a stop at the footbridge in the early morning or late afternoon, when the crowds are thin and the light is golden on the sea.