South of Hualien, the Rift Valley opens up on the left, and on the coast the road follows a long, low shelf of land with the Pacific on one side. The rocks are volcanic and sedimentary, folded and eroded into odd shapes, and on a clear day the light on them is strange and beautiful. The coast road here is known for its quiet, with fewer cars than the main valley road.
Highway 11 runs between the Pacific and the Coastal Mountain Range, following the contours of the shore with long curves and gentle gradients. The surface is good, the bends are open, and the road is wide enough to enjoy. Wind off the ocean can be strong, particularly in autumn and winter, and sea spray sometimes reaches the road in rough weather. There are many small fishing harbours, with boats pulled up on the sand and nets drying. Roadside stalls sell grilled squid, sweet potatoes and fresh fruit.
This section of the coast crosses the Tropic of Cancer, which is marked by monuments in the area, and the climate is subtropical, warm and humid. Whales and dolphins swim off the coast, and whale-watching trips go from Hualien and from some harbours further south. The coast is also traditional Amis land, and in summer you may see festivals with dancing and singing.
Fuel stations are less frequent on this stretch than in the city, so it is wise to fill up in Hualien. Small towns offer convenience stores, which in Taiwan are open at all hours and sell coffee, snacks and cold drinks, providing welcome rests. The seafood restaurants are simple and good. The cooler months from October to March are best, though the sea can be rough. A stop at a roadside cafe with a view of the waves is hard to resist.