Where Auckland ends, New Zealand begins, and this is the place to see it. It is a far cry from the East Cape, whose long journey the label describes, and is a fine place to finish a day.
Whatipu is a dramatic place. The Manukau Harbour has one of the most dangerous bar crossings in the world, and in the nineteenth century many ships were wrecked here, including the HMS Orpheus in 1863, New Zealand's worst maritime disaster, in which nearly two hundred sailors died. Wide dunes and a long beach face the Tasman Sea, and a sea cave, once used for dances, opens at the foot of the cliffs. Sea birds gather on the rocks, and gannets from the colony at Muriwai, up the coast, patrol the waves.
The road in is the attraction. Huia Road, from Titirangi, twists and turns through thick native forest, past stands of kauri, with a mix of blind corners, gravel patches and sudden views over the harbour. Karekare, another black sand beach nearby, was the setting for scenes in the film The Piano. The surface is narrow, often damp and shaded, and slips and tree falls can block sections after storms, so check conditions and slow down. In summer, beaches fill with surfers and walkers at weekends.
Titirangi, the village on the edge of the ranges, has cafes, galleries and fuel, and is the last real service before the coast. Take plenty of fuel and water, since there are no shops at Whatipu. Mist and rain sweep in off the Tasman quickly, and temperatures can drop. The colours at sunset, when the sky glows over the dunes, are a good reward.