Dzhily-Su is a meadow of hot springs high on the flank of Elbrus, and the name means hot water in the Turkic languages of the Caucasus. The valley, at about two and a half thousand metres, is a broad glacial trough, with mineral springs bubbling up from the ground in several places, some warm and some cold, all rich in iron and carbon dioxide, and the rocks around them are stained orange and rust. The springs are known as narzans, and they are famous throughout Russia, where people have drunk them for centuries for their supposed healing properties. In summer, the spot becomes a base for walkers, horse riders and jeep tours, with simple camps, tents and a wooden bath house.
The setting is dramatic. Above the meadow, the slopes rise to the summit ridges and glaciers of the Greater Caucasus, with Elbrus, the highest peak in Europe at 5,642 metres, appearing on clear days like a huge white dome. The air is thin and cool, with the smell of wet grass and sulphur, and the meadows are brilliant with flowers in July. Cattle and horses graze on the slopes, tended by herders from the Karachay and Balkar peoples, who have lived in the region for centuries and keep alive their traditions of animal husbandry and hospitality.
Getting there is an expedition rather than a ride. The track to Dzhily-Su is a rough mountain road, mostly rock and gravel, climbing from the valleys with steep sections, washed-out gullies and stream crossings, and it is normally done in a four-wheel-drive vehicle with a local driver. A motorbike would be a serious undertaking, with a good dual-sport machine, an experienced rider and a dry day. Rain turns the track dangerous, and the weather in the mountains changes quickly, with fog, thunderstorms, and even snow in summer. The season is short, usually from late June to early September.
The nearest sizeable town is Tyrnyauz, about thirty-one kilometres away by the road, where you can buy fuel, food and supplies, and the villages of Terskol and Elbrus have small shops and cafés. Take water, warm clothes, waterproofs, a repair kit and a plan, and do not travel alone if you can avoid it.
Taste the spring water, if it is safe, and notice the fizz. It is cold, iron-rich, and strange.