Dyranut stands at about 1,245 metres on the western edge of the Hardangervidda, the largest mountain plateau in Europe, and it is a mountain lodge in the old Norwegian tradition: a simple wooden building with a restaurant, beds and a view over an enormous bare country. The plateau is a high, rolling upland of stone, bog, small lakes and low scrub, with the occasional snow patch hanging on into July. There are no trees, and the sky is large. When the cloud lifts, the light can be extraordinarily clear, and the mountains seem close enough to touch.
The Hardangervidda holds the largest herd of wild reindeer in Europe, and the animals roam over the whole plateau, moving between summer and winter grazing. You may see them from the road, a dark line against the pale ground, and they are best seen early in the morning or in the evening. The plateau is also a national park, and its protected status keeps it free from building. In the distance, the long white back of the Hardangerjøkulen glacier can show on a clear day.
The riding on the Rv7 here is open and fast, with long, easy curves that follow the lie of the land. It is a high-speed, high-altitude road, and you feel the exposure. Wind is usually the main thing, and it can be strong enough to move a bike sideways on the straights. Rain and fog arrive without warning, and the temperature at 1,200 metres is far below what you left in the fjord, even in July. Dress warmly, carry waterproofs, and treat any sign of ice with respect, because it can appear in any month.
The lodge is a welcome stop, with hot food, coffee and a toilet, and it is open in the main season. Do not count on it in the shoulder months, and call ahead if you can. Eidfjord, at the foot of the descent, has a pump, and Geilo, on the east side of the plateau, has more services, so make sure you start the day with a full tank. A bowl of hot soup, waffles with jam and sour cream, and a seat at the window are exactly what the place is for.