Dushanzi is where the desert gives way to the mountains in northern Xinjiang, a city of oil refineries and chemical plants at the foot of the Tian Shan, and its main interest to riders is that it is the northern end of the Duku Highway. That road climbs south across the range, passing through snowy summits, high grasslands and canyons, before dropping into the Tarim Basin at Kuqa, a journey of roughly five hundred and fifty kilometres through some of the most dramatic scenery in China.
The town itself is blunt and industrial, with wide boulevards and steel towers, and has little to offer except fuel, food and a bed. It is, however, a good place to prepare. The land north of the mountains is flat and dry, the Junggar Basin stretching toward the horizon, and the Tian Shan appears as a white wall in the distance on a clear day. Dust and haze are common, and the wind can be fierce.
South of the city, the highway enters the Dushanzi Grand Canyon, a gorge of striped red and ochre rock carved by a river, and the road follows it in a series of tight bends. Beyond that lies Kuitun and then the high pastures of the Narat and Bayanbulak regions, grasslands where Kazakh and Mongol herders move their sheep and horses in summer. At Bayanbulak, the wide marshy plain is a breeding ground for swans, and the road crosses a high pass with a view of glaciers. The route finishes with the red canyons of Kuqa, one of the largest canyon landscapes in the country.
The Duku Highway is a seasonal road, snowbound for much of the year, and it generally opens in early summer and closes again in autumn. Check conditions locally, because landslides and snow can shut it without notice, and sections may be limited by weather or construction. The road surface is generally good, but altitude, long climbs and sudden weather changes demand attention.
Fuel is important. Fill up in Dushanzi and at every opportunity on the way, because the stations are far apart and some may be closed. Carry cash, food and warm clothes, and be prepared for checkpoints where identity papers and vehicle documents may be examined. Foreign visitors should check permit requirements before departure.