The river Wear loops around a rocky peninsula in a tight horseshoe, and on top of it, rising above the trees, stand Durham Cathedral and Durham Castle, one of the most impressive views in Britain. The Normans built both in the late eleventh and early twelfth centuries, soon after the Conquest, as a statement of power in the turbulent north. The cathedral is a masterpiece of Romanesque architecture, with massive columns carved with zigzags and spirals, and its stone rib vaults are among the earliest of their kind in Europe, pointing the way to Gothic architecture. Together, castle and cathedral were listed by UNESCO in 1986.
The cathedral was built to house the shrine of Saint Cuthbert, a seventh-century monk and bishop of Lindisfarne, whose body was carried around the north by monks fleeing Viking raids before finally coming to rest here. The tomb of the Venerable Bede, the great early medieval historian, lies in the Galilee Chapel at the western end. The castle, once the palace of the powerful prince-bishops of Durham, who ruled the region almost like kings, is now a college of Durham University, and students live and dine in its great hall.
The city is compact and hilly, with steep, narrow streets, many of them cobbled. Access to the peninsula is restricted, with a road charge for vehicles entering the area around the cathedral, so it is best to park outside the centre and walk up. The riverside paths below the cathedral are beautiful, especially in autumn.
For riding, head west into the North Pennines, an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty with wild moors and deep valleys. Weardale and Teesdale offer winding roads through open country, past old lead mines and stone villages, with views across the moors, and High Force, one of the most impressive waterfalls in England, is in Teesdale. These roads are quiet but exposed, with sheep wandering freely, and weather can be harsh, with rain, wind, fog and snow in winter.
Durham has fuel, shops and plenty of pubs and cafés. Try a stottie cake or a bowl of pease pudding, local north-eastern specialities, or simply a cup of tea in the cathedral café after a visit.