Dunmore East has the look of a village that was designed to be liked. Whitewashed and thatched cottages cluster around a small harbour on the east side of Waterford estuary, red sandstone cliffs run along the shore, and the sea light is soft and bright. The harbour, built in the early nineteenth century for the mail packet boats to England, is now home to a fleet of fishing boats, yachts and a lifeboat station, and on a fine evening, the terrace of the harbourside pub is crowded with people eating fish and chips and watching the boats. The village has been a favourite with holidaymakers from Waterford city for generations.
The cliffs and coves along this coast are a pleasure to explore. Three small beaches, Councillor's Strand, Man-o'-War Cove and Lawlor's Cove, are reached by steps and paths, and the sheltered water is clear and calm, while the cliffs above hold nesting seabirds, including kittiwakes and fulmars. A short drive away, across the estuary, Hook Head has one of the oldest working lighthouses in the world, with a tower dating back to the thirteenth century. A small car ferry runs between Passage East and Ballyhack, saving the long drive around through Waterford.
The Copper Coast Drive, which runs west along the coast towards Tramore and beyond, is named for the copper mines that once operated along these cliffs, and the region is a UNESCO Global Geopark. The coast road is a lovely, winding ride, with views of sea stacks, sandy coves and old mine ruins, and the surface is mostly good, though narrow in places, with farm traffic and cyclists. The road from Dunmore East to Tramore, by way of the coast, is only a short distance, but it leads through small villages and fields, and it makes a good half-day. The weather in the south-east is milder and drier than the west, and May to September offers the best light.
Look for the old copper mine ruins at Bunmahon, where engine houses stand on the cliffs, and the beaches of the Comeragh coast, which are wide, empty and good for walking. The area is popular with geologists, since the rocks record ancient volcanic and sedimentary history.
Dunmore East has a few pubs, cafés and restaurants serving fresh seafood, and a small shop. For fuel, Tramore, about eleven kilometres away, has stations and supermarkets, and Waterford city is a short ride north. Fill up before you set off along the coast, and consider an evening meal at the harbour.