Dungarvan lies at the head of a sheltered bay on the south coast of County Waterford, where the Colligan river meets the sea. The Normans built a castle here in the late twelfth century, said to have been ordered by King John, and its stone walls still stand beside the quay with a nearby barracks. The town takes its name from the Irish Dún Garbhán, and the Gaeltacht of An Rinn, where Irish is the daily language, lies just across the bay, giving the area an unusual sense of living tradition.
The Copper Coast, which stretches west from Tramore to Stradbally, gets its name from the old mines that once worked the cliffs. It is a European Geopark, with sea stacks, coves and ancient volcanic rocks, and the cliff road gives views of fields running to the edge and white surf below. Inland, the Comeragh Mountains rise to bare, hollowed corries and a big lake called Coumshingaun, and the roads that cross them are quiet and dramatic. A long disused railway between Dungarvan and Waterford has been turned into a greenway for cyclists and walkers, crossing viaducts and a tunnel.
For a rider, Dungarvan is a satisfying place to end a day. The coastal roads east from Tramore and west toward Youghal are generally good, with plenty of bends and flat, open stretches, and in clear weather the light over the bay is lovely. The N25 is the main road and carries a lot of lorries and holiday traffic, so the quieter R675 along the coast is better. Rain comes in off the Atlantic, often in short heavy showers, and the roads can be greasy. Watch for tractors, cyclists and the occasional herd of cattle crossing.
Fuel is easy in a town of seven and a half thousand, with several stations and supermarkets. Eat seafood at one of the harbourfront pubs; fresh haddock and chips or a bowl of chowder are the sensible choices, and a pint of stout fits any weather. Many guesthouses and B&Bs welcome motorcyclists and will find a dry spot for your bike. Walk across the bridge to Abbeyside in the evening, when the lamps come on, and look back at the castle.