The northern edge of Roman Dacia was a long line of watchtowers, small forts and earthworks drawn across the hills of what is now northern Transylvania, and Dealul Podului, the bridge hill, near Dumbrăveni, was one of the points along it. Watchtowers here kept an eye on the valleys that led north from the province, toward the lands of the free Dacians and other peoples beyond the frontier, and their remains, now mostly low earthworks in the fields and forest, are part of the Frontiers of the Roman Empire listing for Dacia, added by UNESCO in 2024.
This is the valley of the Someș, a river that winds through rolling hills of pasture, orchards and small villages on its way north-west. The landscape is gentle and rural, with haystacks in the fields, horse-drawn carts on the roads, wooden gates and churches. Not far away stand the ruins of the Ciceu fortress, a medieval stronghold on a hilltop that once belonged to the princes of Moldavia, with wide views over the valley.
The riding is relaxed and pleasant, with roads winding through hills and villages, gentle curves and light traffic. Surfaces vary, with good asphalt on main roads and potholes and patched sections on smaller ones. Watch for horse-drawn carts, livestock, dogs and pedestrians in villages, and for farm vehicles at harvest time. The weather is continental, with hot summers, cold winters and changeable springs and autumns.
Ciceu-Giurgești and the nearby villages are small, with a shop or two and perhaps a bar. For fuel and wider choice, head for the larger towns: Beclean and Dej are both within reach, and Căianu Mic is about fourteen kilometres away. Local food is rustic and generous: ciorbă, sour soups with meat or vegetables, polenta with cheese and sour cream, and homemade cakes. In villages, you may be offered țuică, a strong plum brandy, which is a gesture of hospitality, though best declined politely if you are riding.
Come in late spring, when the meadows are full of flowers, or in early autumn, when the orchards are heavy with fruit and the forests begin to turn. The earthworks are faint and easily missed, so give yourself time, ask in the village if you are unsure, and enjoy the walk whether you find them or not.