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Duffy Lake Road

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Anmore is a small village in the forested hills above Burrard Inlet, a short ride from Port Moody and the eastern edge of Vancouver's urban area, and the dot sits here because the Duffy Lake Road loop ends back in this part of the Lower Mainland. The land is dense with hemlock and cedar, the air is damp and cool, and the roads wind between lakes and ridges with a sense of being close to wilderness while only a few kilometres from the shops.

Nearby, Buntzen Lake and Sasamat Lake offer swimming and paddling in water that is warm enough for a dip by midsummer, and Indian Arm, a long fjord that cuts north into the mountains, can be seen from several viewpoints. Port Moody, at the head of the inlet, was once the western terminus of the Canadian Pacific Railway before the line was extended to Vancouver, and it has a pleasant waterfront and a number of craft breweries.

The Duffy Lake Road, which gives the ride its name, is one of British Columbia's finest mountain roads. It links Lillooet, in the dry interior, with Pemberton in the coastal rainforest, over Cayoosh Pass at about 1,250 metres, and in the course of fifty-odd kilometres, the landscape changes from desert hills to glaciers and wet forest. Steep gradients, tight bends and a few narrow sections require focus. Joffre Lakes, a trio of glacier-fed turquoise lakes, lie beside the road and can be reached by a steep trail. In winter, snow and ice can make the pass difficult, and snow tyres are required for cars.

The return to the coast follows the Sea to Sky highway past Squamish and through the fjord country of Howe Sound, one of the best roads in the province, though busy in summer. Speed cameras and police patrols are common, so keep to the limits.

Fuel and food are easy in Port Moody and Coquitlam, with large stations, supermarkets and cafes. The restaurants of Port Moody's Shoreline Trail serve good seafood, and a short walk by the inlet is a calm way to end the day. Rain is common in the Lower Mainland, even in summer, so carry waterproofs. The best months for riding are July to September.

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