South-west of St Petersburg, the flat land of the Neva lowland rises unexpectedly into a pair of wooded hills, the Duderhof heights, the highest ground for many kilometres around. Their name comes from Finnish, and they have long been a landmark, used for military observation since the eighteenth century and as a summer retreat for the people of the capital. In the nineteenth century, the imperial army held its summer manoeuvres around nearby Krasnoye Selo, and the officers' villas and parade grounds became part of the social life of St Petersburg.
During the Second World War, the heights were the scene of bitter fighting during the siege of Leningrad, as German forces captured them in 1941 and used them as an observation post to direct artillery on the city. They were retaken in January 1944 during the offensive that ended the siege, and memorials on the hills commemorate the soldiers who died. Today, the heights are a protected natural area, with forests of spruce, birch and oak, and views over the plain towards the city.
The roads around here are mostly flat and straight, through suburbs, villages and farmland, with heavy traffic near the city. The Duderhof heights offer a few short climbs and curves, and from the top, the views over the plain are impressive. Further afield, the roads along the Gulf of Finland, towards Peterhof and Oranienbaum, offer pleasant riding.
Krasnoye Selo, a few kilometres away, has petrol and shops, and the city itself has the rest. The heights have walking trails through the forest, and the memorials on the hills are a sobering reminder of the siege. The palaces of Peterhof, with their fountains and gardens, and Gatchina, with its park and lakes, are within easy reach. Anyone thinking of travelling here should check current government travel advice, which for many countries advises against all travel to Russia, and consider carefully the legal and practical risks involved.