Dubrovnik was once an independent republic, called Ragusa, and it lasted for centuries by being clever. It was a small city-state that paid tribute to bigger powers, traded with everyone, banned slavery early, and kept a splendid ring of walls that still surrounds the old town. Walking the walls, about two kilometres of stone with towers and bastions, takes an hour or two, and offers views over terracotta roofs and a glittering sea. In 1991 and 1992 the city was shelled during the Yugoslav war, and the damage has been repaired, though a few signs remain. UNESCO added it to its list in 1979.
The old town is closed to traffic, and it is lovely in the early morning and the evening, when the stone glows and the crowds thin out. In summer the cruise ships dock and the main street, the Stradun, is full, so go at dawn or after dark. Take the cable car to Srđ for the best view, and for a reminder of how steep the hills are behind the city.
The riding in the area is exceptional. The Adriatic Highway, which runs high above the old town, has views of the walls and islands, and the road south toward Cavtat and the Montenegrin border winds above the sea. North, the road follows the coast to Ston and the Pelješac peninsula, and since 2022 a bridge links the peninsula to the mainland, bypassing the short stretch of Bosnian coast at Neum so the border checks there no longer interrupt a ride. Traffic is slow in July and August, and the heat and glare are strong. Spring and autumn are the best times.
The city has fuel stations at the edge of town, parking garages near the old town, and a full range of food. Local specialities include black risotto, oysters from Ston, and rozata, a caramel custard. Prices are high in season, and rooms should be booked well ahead. Be careful on the polished stone of the old town in wet weather, and note that speed cameras and traffic police are active on the coastal road.