Drvar sits in a high green bowl of western Bosnia, circled by forested mountains and close to the Dinara range, which marks the border with Croatia. It is a small town, remote and quiet, and for a rider following the Una River route it is a place where the road runs out of towns for a while, so it makes sense to top up when you can. The larger centres are Bosansko Grahovo, about twenty kilometres away, and Sanica, though neither is large by European standards.
The area carries a heavy history. In May 1944 German paratroopers dropped on Drvar in an operation called Rösselsprung, aiming to capture or kill Josip Broz Tito, the Partisan leader, who had his headquarters in a cave on a hillside above the town. He escaped, and the cave remains as a historic site. The town was badly damaged in the wars of the twentieth century, including the conflict of the 1990s, and many of the people who live here came back after years of displacement. It is worth approaching with respect and curiosity rather than a camera in hand.
The landscape is a pleasure. The Unac, a tributary of the Una, runs through a narrow canyon of limestone and clear water south-east of the town, passing the village of Martin Brod where waterfalls tumble over travertine terraces. The forests of beech and spruce shelter bears and wolves, though you are far more likely to see sheep, cattle and the odd tractor. Roads are narrow, with variable surface, tight bends and occasional gravel, and in some places, there are no crash barriers and long drops.
Weather at this altitude can turn quickly. Summer afternoons bring storms, and winter brings deep snow and ice, which can close the minor roads. Spring and early autumn offer the most reliable conditions, with cool mornings and clear light.
Cafes and small shops are found in the town, usually serving strong coffee, cevapi and pita, and prices are very low by Western standards. Carry some cash in convertible marks, because card machines are not universal in the countryside.