Sister Bay is best known for its goats. On the roof of a Swedish restaurant on the main street, a small herd of goats grazes on real turf, a tradition that has become a roadside attraction in its own right. It is quirky and charming, and a great way to get a smile out of a cold, tired rider. The village itself, a few hundred metres of shops and cafes on the bay, has a strong Scandinavian flavour, a reminder of the Norwegian, Swedish and Icelandic immigrants who settled in this part of Wisconsin in the nineteenth century.
The harbour is a lively place in summer, with a marina and a small beach, and the bluff above has views across the water to the far shore. The Scandinavian influence extends to the food, with pancakes, meatballs and rye bread on the menus, and a bakery that sells cherry-filled pastries. The long evenings, when the sun lingers over the bay, are a good time to sit outside with a coffee.
For a rider, Sister Bay has the practical edge. It is the largest village in the northern half of the peninsula and has a supermarket, a petrol station and several restaurants, making it a convenient place to take stock before the quieter roads further north. From here, Highway 42 continues up the western shore with some gentle curves and a gradual change in scenery: the farmland gives way to forest, and the road narrows.
The surrounding country is quieter than the area around Fish Creek, partly because the villages are smaller and the roads more winding. If you have time, the side roads to the east, toward the lakeshore, are worth exploring. They take you through cedar woods and past small farms, with glimpses of the open lake and the occasional limestone cliff.
Summer weekends are crowded, particularly around the restaurant with the goats, so aim to arrive early. Autumn brings the colours, with the maples turning vivid red and gold by early October, and the crowds drift back to the cities. Spring is cool and wet, but the cherry blossoms are worth the cold. Pack a warm layer for the evening, because the air off the bay can be sharp even after a hot day.