The Dong Van plateau is a landscape in which almost nothing is flat. In the far north of Vietnam, in Ha Giang province near the Chinese border, a vast area of limestone has been uplifted, cracked and worn into jagged grey ridges, deep valleys and pockets of terraced fields, and it is protected as a UNESCO Global Geopark. The rock is old, much of it hundreds of millions of years, and in places it is full of fossils. Maize is grown in little pockets of soil between boulders, with farmers building stone walls to hold the earth in place, so that whole hillsides look like handmade quilts.
People live here, too, in a way that seems impossible. The area is home to several ethnic minorities, including the Hmong, Lo Lo, Tay and Dao, and each has its own dress, language and customs. Villages are built of stone and clay, with thick walls against the cold, and the Sunday market in the little town of Dong Van is a riot of colour, with traditional clothing, livestock and food. In autumn, usually October and November, the buckwheat fields bloom with pink and white flowers, a gentle contrast with the grey rock.
The riding is among the best in Southeast Asia. Roads climb and twist along cliffs, with hairpins, sudden drops, steep gradients and stunning views at every bend, and the famous Ma Pi Leng Pass looks down into the Nho Que river canyon, a deep green gash far below. Surface quality is mostly good, but landslides, potholes and fog can be a problem, particularly in the wet season. Traffic is usually light, but trucks, motorbikes and buffalo share the road, and drivers overtake on blind bends, so caution and a steady pace are wise.
The town of Dong Van has fuel, basic guesthouses and simple restaurants, and it is the practical base on the plateau. Elsewhere, fuel may be sold from bottles at roadside shops, so fill up when you can. Try thang co, a traditional horse or buffalo stew, and corn wine, and expect cold nights even in summer, since the altitude is well above a thousand metres. Bring a warm layer and a rain jacket, and give yourself time, because the best moments are often the unplanned stops.