Saint-André-de-Corcy is a village on the southern edge of the Dombes, a flat plateau of clay and water north of Lyon that is unlike anywhere else in France. Over the centuries, monks and landowners dug a thousand or so shallow ponds, called étangs, across the clay to raise fish, and the whole landscape is a patchwork of water, reeds, meadows and little woods, with farmhouses built of brick and timber. The dot lies at the southern edge of this strange country, with Mionnay just beside it.
The ponds work on a long cycle. In the autumn or winter the farmers drain the water through a sluice, harvest the carp, tench and pike that have grown there for several years, and leave the bed dry for a season to grow oats or to rest. Then the pond is flooded again, and the cycle repeats. The result is a landscape that looks wild but is in fact tended by hand, and it is rich in wildlife. Herons, black-necked grebes, kingfishers and migrating waders find food here, and the Parc des Oiseaux at Villars-les-Dombes, a few kilometres north, has a large collection of birds from around the world.
For a rider, the Dombes are an easy day. The roads are flat and straight, running between ponds and woods, with long views and little traffic. They are best taken slowly, with a stop to watch the birds, and the light is lovely at dawn and dusk, when mist rises from the water. Sandy patches and fallen leaves can make the surface slippery in autumn. In summer, mosquitoes and heat make the afternoon less pleasant, and the high season is spring and early autumn.
The local cooking reflects the landscape. Carp, fried or in a stew, and frogs' legs are the classic dishes, and the village restaurants serve them with butter, garlic and parsley. Mionnay is known to food lovers as a place with a long tradition of excellent restaurants, and a table here is worth booking in advance.
Fuel is easy in Saint-André-de-Corcy, with stations on the main road and a small supermarket. Lyon is half an hour away.