Dombay is a high mountain basin at about 1,600 metres, where the Teberda valley opens into a green bowl surrounded by some of the most dramatic peaks in the western Caucasus. The name is said to mean bison in the Karachay language, and local legend ties it to herds that once grazed the meadows. The peaks around it are serious: Dombay-Ulgen, a pyramid of rock and ice, tops 4,000 metres, and glaciers hang above forests of spruce and pine.
In winter, Dombay is a ski resort, with a cable car that carries passengers high up the slope to terraces at over three thousand metres, where skiers and snowboarders descend runs above the treeline. In summer the same lifts take hikers and sightseers up to views over a sea of summits. A vast panorama extends from the top station, with the ridges of the main Caucasus range fading into the haze. The village itself is a straggle of wooden chalets, hotels and cafés, with a lively and relaxed atmosphere.
The valley is full of walking routes. A short walk leads to a waterfall, another to a glacier lake with emerald water. The nearby Alibek and Gonachkhir valleys offer longer days among rocks and snow. The weather is changeable, and clouds can wrap the peaks in minutes, so carry a waterproof layer even in July.
For the rider, the road from Teberda to Dombay is a steady climb along the river with views opening at every bend. The surface is mostly asphalt, with patches of potholes, and in the valley bottom the road narrows between trees. In the old days, the historic Military Sukhumi Road ran from here over the Klukhor Pass to the Black Sea, a rough mountain route built in the nineteenth century, though the modern border situation keeps the high crossing out of reach for travellers.
There are small fuel stops at the foot of the valley, but not in the village itself, so fill up before climbing. You can eat at the cafés in Dombay, where grilled meat, dumplings and flatbreads fill the menus, and the tea is served with local honey. In early summer, the meadows bloom with wildflowers, and in September the larches and birches go yellow. By November, snow lies thickly and the ski season begins.