Doi Inthanon is the highest mountain in Thailand, at 2,565 metres, and the road to the top is a pleasure for anyone who likes to climb. From Chom Thong, a market town on the plain, Route 1009 winds up through the national park, passing waterfalls, villages and layers of forest, and reaching a summit that is cold, damp and often wrapped in cloud. Temperatures at the top can fall close to freezing on winter nights, a surprise for a country known for heat, and it is wise to pack a warm layer.
The mountain is the southern end of the Himalayan chain's outliers, and the forest on its upper slopes is a rare habitat, a cloud forest where moss hangs from every branch and ferns and orchids cover the trees. Birdwatchers love it, and it holds more than three hundred species, including some found nowhere else in Thailand. The Ang Ka nature trail, near the summit, is a short boardwalk through a mossy forest. Two large pagodas near the top were built by the Royal Thai Air Force to honour the king and queen, and the gardens around them are bright with flowers.
Karen and Hmong people live on the mountain, and their villages grow coffee, strawberries and vegetables on terraces. Waterfalls fall in tiers on the way up, and the largest, Wachirathan and Mae Ya, are worth a stop. After rain, they thunder, and the spray is cool on a hot day. The summit has a small marker and a spot of national pride, and in the cool season, a crowd gathers to watch the sunrise.
The ride up is steady, with good tarmac, some steep ramps and many bends, and few straight stretches. The road is narrow near the top and traffic can be heavy at weekends. Take it slowly, because fog and rain can reduce visibility quickly, and the road can be slippery. The park charges an entry fee, which includes the motorbike. Early starts are best, before cloud builds and the tour buses arrive.
Services on the mountain are limited, with small restaurants and stalls near the summit, but fuel is a matter for the plain. Chom Thong, about twenty-seven kilometres away, has stations and food. Fill up there, and bring cash and a jacket.