Divundu is a crossroads in a place that otherwise barely has roads. It lies where the Okavango River, having come down from Angola and spread out across the sand, squeezes through a rocky step known as Popa Falls before it fans into the great delta far to the south. The settlement, along with neighbouring Bagani, sits inside the western end of the Caprivi Strip, a thin finger of Namibia that Germany acquired from Britain in 1890 in a deal that also traded away Zanzibar. A boundary drawn in distant offices still shapes how this landscape looks on the map.
The riding here is straight and surprisingly alive. The tar passes through the Bwabwata National Park, and animals are not a metaphor. Elephants cross the road at their own pace, and you will want to slow down far before you see them, since a bull in a bad mood is not a thing to meet at speed. Buffalo, kudu and warthogs turn up at the verge. Ride mid-morning or late afternoon, keep your eyes on the tree line, and treat any dark shape in the shadows as a possibility.
Popa Falls is hardly a waterfall in the Victoria Falls sense. It is a long run of low rapids over quartzite ledges, with islands of papyrus and trees in between, and in the dry season it can look more like a staircase of rocks than a cascade. Even so, the sound of the river and the birdlife around it make it a worthwhile half hour. Hippos and crocodiles live in the quieter pools, and the lodges and campsites along the bank have views that make you cancel your plans for the afternoon.
Fuel and food here are modest. A small filling point exists in the area, but supply in remote Namibia can be uneven, so arrive with a full tank from Rundu and take what Divundu offers as a bonus. Small shops, a craft stall or two, and the riverside camps will cover coffee and a meal. Water, sunscreen and a long sleeve are more useful than cleverness. If you want to see a side of Africa where the road is a fine line through living country, this is the stop.