Divisadero means lookout, and the name is accurate. At the edge of the Sierra Tarahumara, the plateau ends abruptly, and the ground falls away into the Copper Canyon, a maze of gorges more than a mile deep, with pine-covered rims, red cliffs and, far below, the green of the subtropical river valleys. From the viewpoint, the canyons meet from three directions, and the view stretches to the horizon, with clouds drifting below. It is one of the great sights of Mexico, and it never fails to stop people mid-sentence.
The Chepe train, which runs from Chihuahua to the Pacific coast, stops here for fifteen minutes so that passengers can step out and see the view, and the platform fills with tourists, vendors and Raramuri women selling baskets and food. Artisans in traditional dress sell weavings, woven pine-needle baskets and small violins, and the smell of grilled corn and tortillas drifts across. If you ride here outside the train time, the place is much quieter.
There is more to do than look. A cable car runs across a side canyon, there are zip lines for the brave and a walk along the rim gives different views, with trails leading down into the gorge. The canyon floor is very different, with orange trees and warm air, while at the top, pines and cold wind prevail. The temperature difference can be many degrees, and the Raramuri, who live in both zones, move between them with the seasons. In the rainy months, from July to September, the canyon turns bright green.
There are no big supplies of fuel here, and Creel, thirty-one kilometres away, is the main source, so make sure you fill up before riding out. San Rafael, nearer, has only a small supply. Food stalls near the viewpoint sell tacos, quesadillas and coffee, and a few simple hotels offer rooms. The road from Creel is paved, winding through pine forest with views opening between the trees, and it is a fine ride, although animals and trucks require care. Mornings are clear and cold, and by afternoon clouds often build. Sunrise and sunset are the best times to see the canyon, when the light turns the cliffs orange and purple, and the silence is deep.