In April of 1500 the Portuguese fleet under Pedro Álvares Cabral sighted a mountain on the Bahia coast, called it Monte Pascoal because it was Easter, and went ashore nearby. That is the usual start of Brazil's written history, and the stretch of coast around Porto Seguro and Santa Cruz Cabrália has been called the Costa do Descobrimento, the Coast of Finding, ever since. The Atlantic Forest reserves behind the beaches protect what is left of one of the most diverse and most reduced forests on Earth. Only a small fraction of the original Mata Atlântica remains, and the patches in southern Bahia are especially rich in plants and animals found nowhere else.
The road network around here is dominated by the BR-101 and the BR-367, with smaller state roads leading toward the coast and the forest edges. Riding is easy but demanding in its own way: long straight stretches with lorries and buses, villages with speed bumps, and sudden potholes. Take care at dusk, when animals and unlit vehicles share the road. A shorter day with a detour to a forest road is better than trying to cover big distances.
The forest itself is humid and dense, with tall trees, epiphytes and orchids, and the soil smells of leaf mould. It is home to golden-headed lion tamarins and other primates, as well as a huge number of birds, though most visitors will mostly hear the forest rather than see it. The region is also known for its pau-brasil, the brazilwood tree that gave the country its name, and which was cut so heavily for dye in the colonial period that it became rare.
Ferries cross rivers near the coast, and in the rainy season dirt roads can become slippery or impassable, so ask locally before leaving the tarmac. The best months for riding are generally September to March, though rain is possible at any time. Porto Seguro has a lively historic upper town, Cidade Alta, with colonial churches dating from the sixteenth century, and a fresh moqueca, a Bahian fish stew cooked in coconut milk and palm oil, is the dish to look for. Carry water and sun protection, as the coastal sun is strong.