Some places on a map feel remote; this one actually is. The point named Diosa Madre, mother goddess, lies in the mountains of the Sierra de Segura, in the far southwest of Albacete province, roughly sixteen kilometres from Yeste and not far from the border with Jaén. The mountains themselves are the real experience.
The Sierra de Segura is a wild landscape of limestone peaks, deep river gorges and vast pine forests, where the Segura river, one of the most important in southeastern Spain, begins its journey to the Mediterranean. Villages are small and scattered, many clinging to hillsides or perched on rocky outcrops, and the population has declined for decades as people moved to the cities. Wildlife is abundant, including ibex, deer, wild boar, griffon vultures and golden eagles, and the forests smell of resin and wild herbs.
Yeste is the main village in this area, with a castle that once belonged to the Order of Santiago and a lovely old town. The Fuensanta reservoir, on the Segura below Yeste, is a beautiful stretch of turquoise water surrounded by forest.
Riding here is a pure pleasure for those who enjoy mountain roads. The roads from Yeste toward Segura de la Sierra and Siles, or north toward Elche de la Sierra, twist and turn endlessly through the forest, with steep gradients, hairpins and spectacular views over the valleys and reservoirs. Surfaces vary from excellent to rough, with gravel and fallen rocks after storms, and there are few guardrails. Traffic is very light, but watch for logging trucks and animals. Winters are cold, with snow on the heights; summers are warm but cooler than the plains.
Yeste has fuel, a few shops, bars and simple lodging, and it is wise to fill up there before heading deeper into the mountains. Segura de la Sierra and Orcera, on the Jaén side, offer more services. Local food includes ajo pringue, a rich pork and liver spread, and roasted kid, washed down with robust local red wine.