The Digor Gorge belongs to the Digor people, a branch of the Ossetians with their own dialect, sometimes considered a separate language, and their own history and pride. The valley of the Urukh River cuts deep into the Caucasus in the west of North Ossetia, and the scenery here is among the most dramatic in the republic. At its lower end the river has carved a narrow canyon through limestone, with sheer walls and the road clinging to a ledge above the water, before the valley opens into a basin of green pastures surrounded by snow-capped peaks.
The upper gorge is dotted with villages, old stone towers and family crypts, some abandoned and some still lived in. In the village of Zadalesk, a tower is linked to a legend about a woman who saved her people's children after an invasion, a story that every Digor child knows. The valley is also rich in wildlife, with chamois and tur on the high slopes, golden eagles above, and wildflowers in the meadows in early summer. The glaciers at the head of the valley feed the river, which runs grey and fast, thundering over rocks.
The road up the Digor Gorge is an adventure. It is paved at first, then narrows, roughens and turns to gravel in places, with tight bends, steep drops and some single-lane sections where you have to pull aside for oncoming vehicles. Rockfalls are common, especially after rain or during the spring thaw, so take it slowly and watch for debris on the road. The canyon section is particularly impressive, and the views open out as you climb into the upper valley. Parts of the valley lie close to the Georgian border and may be in a border zone, so check whether a permit is required.
Supplies are thin on the ground. You will find guesthouses and small shops in some villages, but for fuel and supplies, Chikola, about forty kilometres back down the valley, is the nearest town. Fill up before heading in, carry water and food, and allow plenty of time. The Digor Gorge rewards patience: the deeper you go, the wilder and more beautiful it gets, and the sense of having reached a remote, proud corner of the Caucasus is unforgettable.