Mývatn means midge lake, and the name is not a joke. In summer the lake is alive with small flies that rise in clouds from the water, a delight for the trout and the ducks and a nuisance for visitors, who learn quickly to carry a head net. In return, the lake is one of the richest bird habitats in Europe, with more species of duck breeding here than almost anywhere, and it sits in a landscape so strange that you start to doubt which planet you are on.
The ride around the lake is a series of surprises. The road is generally good, with gentle bends, and passes through lava fields and past strange formations. Dimmuborgir, the dark castles, is a maze of twisted lava pillars and caves, said in folklore to be the home of trolls and the Yule Lads. At Hverir, a barren field of boiling mud pots and steaming vents, the ground is stained yellow with sulphur, and the smell is powerful. The Krafla volcanic area, where eruptions continued through the early eighties, is nearby.
The lake itself was formed by a huge volcanic eruption about two thousand years ago, and it is dotted with pseudocraters, formed when lava flowed over wet ground and the steam blasted holes. The shallow, warm water supports a rich ecosystem, and the lake is a nature reserve. A geothermal bathing lagoon nearby is a good way to ease sore muscles after the ride.
Nature is exceptional. Besides the ducks, the area is famed for its rich plant life, with mosses, lichens and flowers thriving on the lava, and the long summer evenings give a soft, golden light across the water. The smell of sulphur and wet earth is constant.
The villages around the lake have shops, cafes and places to stay, and it is a good base for a night or two. Be prepared for the midges, and ride in the morning or evening to avoid the worst. Wind can be strong, and the air is cold, even in summer.