Below the pass, the road drops to the sea at Dhërmi, a village that spreads down a green slope from a ridge of old stone houses to a long, pale beach. The village was historically mostly Greek-speaking and Orthodox, part of the Himara region where Greek communities have lived for centuries, and its churches, notably the one called Panagia and a monastery up the hill, have fine old frescoes. The old quarter, with its steep lanes and walled gardens, is worth a walk before the day gets hot.
The beach is the great attraction, a long arc of fine shingle and pebbles with startlingly clear, bright blue water. In July and August it is lined with bars and sunbeds, with music in the evening, and the summer crowds from Tirana and abroad can make the road and car park slow. In June or September, the place is calmer, the water still warm, and the beach has space. Wear sandals for the pebbles, and take care if swimming near the rocks, where currents can be sharp.
For a rider, Dhërmi is the reward for the descent from Llogara. The road above and below the village is an excellent mix of fast bends and short straights with the sea always on one side, olive groves and wild fig trees on the other, and a limestone wall of mountain behind. The surface is better than it once was, but traffic can be dense in summer, with tourists in hired cars who stop without warning to take photographs. Be patient, and use the early morning for the best of the road.
The coast is part of the Ceraunian range, a steep mass of limestone that plunges directly into the sea, which is why the beaches are narrow and the water deepens quickly. The olive terraces on the hillside were planted over centuries, and the village keeps a tradition of olive oil, honey and fresh seafood. Lunch on a terrace with grilled fish, a Greek-style salad and a cold local beer is the thing to do.
Himarë, a town of nearly five thousand people about ten kilometres south, has petrol stations and shops. Fill up there, and keep some small bills for parking and beach fees. Evenings are lovely, with the light turning gold over the water.