The Garganta del Diablo, the Devil's Throat, is a narrow, deep cleft in the red cliffs of the Quebrada de las Conchas, and it is one of the most dramatic stops on the road between Salta and Cafayate. A short path leads from the road up into the gorge, between walls that close in overhead and cut out much of the sky. The rock is rust-coloured and streaked with other tones, and the light inside is a strange glowing orange. It is cool and shaded, a welcome contrast to the hot sun outside.
Local legend gives the place its name, though the stories vary, and some say that the gorge is the throat of a monster. The sandstone was shaped by water over a very long time, and the narrow slot was cut by flash floods that rushed down from the hills in the wet season. Climb a little way up, and you get views down the quebrada, and over the winding road below. There are also small scrambles for the adventurous, but the loose rock needs care.
Compared with its neighbour, the Amphitheatre, the Devil's Throat is more of a place for walking and gazing than for sound. Vendors sell weavings, ceramics and cactus-wood carvings near the entrance, and you can buy cold drinks, as well as roasted corn and empanadas. The scenery along the stretch of road is among the most striking in Argentina, with towering cliffs, pinnacles and wide views down the valley, where the river braids through the gravel.
For riders, the main things are heat, sun and wind. The tarmac of Route 68 is smooth and generally pleasant, but you should be careful about stopping on the roadside, and watch for sand patches on the bends. Summers are hot, with thunderstorms, and the storms can bring flash floods that close the road for a short time. The cooler months are the most comfortable, and the clear air makes the colours stand out.
Services are thin along the Quebrada. Cafayate is a pleasant town with wine cellars, ice cream shops and restaurants, and is the usual overnight stop for riders on the route. Carry water, and wear sturdy shoes if you plan to walk.