Here the high plateau of northern Almería feels as far from the beach resorts as it is possible to be. The land is a wide, dry tableland of cereal fields, almond groves and scrubby pine, at about a thousand metres, with the Sierra de María rising above it in bare limestone ridges. The little village of María and the towns of Vélez Rubio and Vélez-Blanco are the centres of the district, known as Los Vélez, and the shelters of the area, including this one, hold prehistoric paintings in the Levantine style.
The Sierra de María-Los Vélez Natural Park has pine and oak woods, rare plants and a large population of birds of prey, and its summit, Maimón, tops two thousand metres. Cave dwellings and old threshing floors dot the farmland, and the villages have the plain whitewashed look of dry-country Spain. Winters are cold, with snow, and summers are hot and bright.
For riders, this is satisfying and quiet. Roads cross the plateau in long straights and then climb into the sierra in bends and switchbacks, with big views and almost no traffic, and the surface is often good though broken in places. Fuel is scarce, so plan: Vélez Rubio, about twenty-three kilometres away, has stations and shops, as do larger towns toward Murcia. The wind on the plateau can be strong and cold in winter, and the sun intense in summer, so dress accordingly and carry plenty of water.
In Vélez Rubio, look at the baroque church of the Encarnación, one of the grandest in the province, which seems out of scale with the town. Food is simple and strong, with stews, gurullos, which are small pasta shapes cooked with meat, and migas. Spring, when poppies cover the fields, and autumn are the best seasons. Ask locally about access to the shelter, as the roads leading to it may be unpaved, and respect any fences or protective measures.