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Derebasi Turns

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Some roads exist mainly to show off, and the bends at Derebaşı are one of them. The road climbs the valley wall above the Çaykara stream in a stack of tight hairpins, one on top of another, so that from the top you can look down and see the road you have just ridden folded back and forth through the spruce forest. It is a short stretch, but the density of the bends is remarkable, and motorcyclists who know about it come here deliberately.

The surrounding landscape is the eastern Black Sea highlands, where mountains rise steeply from the coast and catch the moist air, so the slopes are green, the forests are thick and the clouds seem to live in the valleys. Streams tumble through the woods, wooden houses with steep roofs sit in clearings, and wisps of smoke rise from kitchen chimneys. Tea terraces climb the lower slopes, and higher up the vegetation shifts to spruce, rhododendron and alpine meadow. In late spring the rhododendrons turn parts of the hillside purple and pink.

The riding demands attention. Hairpins here are tight and often steep, and the surface varies from smooth asphalt to patched sections and occasional gravel, particularly after rain, which is common. Fog can drop within minutes, hiding the next bend entirely, and trucks, minibuses and tractors share the road, so overtaking on a hairpin is a poor idea. Watch for cattle, dogs and children near the villages. Dry, clear weather is most likely from late spring to early autumn, with mornings giving the best visibility, and you should expect the temperature to drop noticeably as you climb.

There is little in the way of services on the bends themselves. Çaykara, about fifteen kilometres behind you, has petrol stations, shops and restaurants, and the smaller town of Dernekpazarı lies further along. Fill the tank in Çaykara before you start, and carry a rain jacket and a warm layer. Small roadside stalls and tea houses appear near the villages, offering tea, bread and local cheese, and the people are usually curious and friendly when a motorcyclist stops.

Stop at one of the wider corners near the top, switch off the engine, and listen to the stream. It is a good place to catch your breath before the next set of turns.

Read it in a ride

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