A river that has been cutting through a ridge for millions of years leaves a notch like a missing tooth, and the Delaware Water Gap is exactly that. At this spot the Delaware slices through Kittatinny Ridge, with Mount Minsi on the Pennsylvania side and Mount Tammany on the New Jersey side, each rising about twelve hundred feet above the water. The gap is a classic piece of geology, with tilted layers of sandstone and shale exposed in the cliffs, and the Appalachian Trail crosses the river here on the Interstate 80 bridge, a spot where hikers and trucks meet.
In the nineteenth century this was one of the first American holiday destinations. Grand hotels rose above the river, and city people came by railroad to breathe cooler air, to walk, paint and sit on verandas. Today the hotels are mostly gone, but the village of Delaware Water Gap in Pennsylvania has a small main street with galleries, cafes and a long tradition of jazz. The surrounding Delaware Water Gap National Recreation Area protects roughly seventy thousand acres on both sides of the river, with waterfalls, hiking trails and quiet forest.
The riding here is gentle and scenic rather than challenging. River Road on the New Jersey side, now part of the national recreation area, runs along the Delaware for many miles, with views of the water and the ridge, rolling curves and moderate traffic. Pennsylvania's side has winding roads through woods and small villages. Weekends in summer bring crowds of tubers and kayakers and the roads can be busy, while autumn brings brilliant foliage. Watch for deer at dusk, and for gravel on the shoulders after heavy rain.
East Stroudsburg and Stroudsburg, a few miles away, provide fuel, groceries and restaurants, and they have a bit of college-town liveliness thanks to the university. A stop for ice cream or coffee on a porch is part of the tradition. Parking at overlooks and trailheads can require a fee in the national recreation area, so carry some cash or a card. Mid-September to mid-October is wonderful for colour, and late spring has wildflowers and empty roads.