On the open grassland of north-central Mongolia, tall grey slabs of granite stand in lines, tilted slightly towards the sky, with strange carvings on their sides. These are deer stones, and the name comes from the flying deer with long antlers that are carved on them, stylised as streams of curving lines. They were raised by Bronze Age herders about three thousand years ago, probably as memorials to important men, and some stand three or four metres tall. Mongolia has well over a thousand, more than anywhere else in the world, and the best-known groups lie around the Khangai and the northern mountains, within the broader region of the Gol Mod sites that make up this part of the map.
The carving is superb in its simplicity. The upper part of a stone often shows a sun or a face with earrings, the middle section carries a belt with tools, a knife and an axe, and the lower part has the deer, leaping with their muzzles like birds' beaks and their antlers sweeping back across the stone. Around the stones lie stone mounds called khirigsuur, and sometimes the skulls of horses buried in the surrounding circles, suggesting rituals of sacrifice. This is a landscape of ceremony, laid out on the steppe with a very deliberate hand.
Riding here is something completely different from European touring. Beyond the paved road to Tsetserleg, about thirty-five kilometres away, tracks run across the steppe in several parallel lines, and conditions depend on rain, sheep, and the last vehicle to pass. A heavy bike would struggle in sand or mud, and a small dual-sport machine with luggage is far better. Fuel is available in Tsetserleg, which is the provincial capital of Arkhangai, but not on the steppe, so carry extra and plan your range carefully. Weather changes fast, with strong winds, hail and even snow possible in summer, and nights are cold at this altitude.
The best time is from June to September, when the grass is green and the days are long. Nomadic families live in gers across the grassland, and hospitality is traditional, with salty milk tea, fermented mare's milk in summer and dried curds offered to guests. Ask permission before approaching a ger, greet with respect, and close any gate you open.