Visoki Dečani is a monastery that looks as if a Romanesque church from Italy had settled in the Balkan mountains. It lies in the valley of the Bistrica river, in western Kosovo, under the steep wall of the Prokletije or Accursed mountains, and its main church, built between 1327 and 1335 for the Serbian king Stefan Dečanski, is a large block of pink, grey and yellow marble, with carved portals, lions and a rose window, the work of a Franciscan master from the Adriatic coast. Inside it is a different world, with more than a thousand painted scenes covering every inch of wall and ceiling, one of the largest surviving cycles of Byzantine painting in the Balkans. It was listed by UNESCO in 2004, with other medieval monuments of Kosovo.
The monastery is still a working Serbian Orthodox community, with monks who keep bees, make wine and run a small shop selling honey, icons and brandy. It is also protected by international peacekeeping troops, who check visitors at the entrance, so bring your passport, and in some periods you need to register in advance, so check the latest rules before you travel. Dress modestly, cover shoulders and knees, and keep your voice low.
The town of Deçan, or Dečani, has about fifty thousand people in the wider area, and Lloqan is a small village nearby. Fuel and food are easy in Deçan, and Peja, a few kilometres east, is bigger. The riding in this part of Kosovo is excellent, with a road that heads south along the Bistrica toward the mountain wall, wooded valleys, a few tight bends and light traffic. Roads are in decent condition, but surfaces change quickly on mountain stretches, and animals sometimes wander across the road. The trail of the Gash river, in the ride title, leads towards Albania and the high peaks.
Kosovo is small, and its border crossings can be slow, so allow time. Carry insurance documents and check the rules on entering from Serbia, where political tensions can affect crossings. Spring and autumn are best, with snow on the peaks and warm days in the valley. Take a coffee in town, and keep an ear open for the call to prayer mixed with church bells.