The Dead Sea is the lowest point on the surface of the Earth, about 430 metres below sea level, and it is a strange experience to ride down to it. From Amman the road drops through the hills, with the temperature rising noticeably, until the great expanse of pale blue water appears beneath dry, ochre-coloured cliffs. The salt content is almost ten times that of the ocean, so nothing lives in it, and swimmers float effortlessly on the surface, reading a newspaper if they wish.
Today, with so much water taken for irrigation upstream, the sea is shrinking by roughly a metre a year, leaving white salt crusts and sinkholes along the shore. The scale of the change is visible in the old resort jetties that now stand far from the water. The lake is shared between Jordan, Israel and the West Bank, and the Jordanian side is reached by a smooth, well-kept highway that runs along the east shore.
The riding is pleasant, with long, gentle bends and views across to the Judean hills, though the heat is intense in summer, and the road can be busy with tour buses and lorries. Spring and autumn are the best seasons, with warm sun and comfortable temperatures. Carry plenty of water, wear sun protection, and don't underestimate the strong light and the dry air.
If you swim, or rather float, follow the rules: do not splash, keep water away from your eyes, do not shave beforehand, and rinse in the fresh water showers afterwards. The mud on the shore is said to be good for the skin, and many people cover themselves in it. Hot springs, such as those at Ma'in, are found in canyons nearby.
Fuel stations along the shore road are spaced out, so fill the tank in Madaba or Amman before descending. There are resort hotels with day-pass beaches where you can leave your bike and gear safely, and have a meal, which is by far the easiest way to enjoy a float.