The summit of this road is a high, windy shoulder at about 2,450 metres, with a view that drops away to the west over the Clarks Fork valley and the red and grey peaks of the Absaroka Range, and the name on the sign is a hard one. The pass is part of the route taken in 1877 by the Nez Perce, who were fleeing the US Army across Idaho, Montana and Wyoming in a desperate attempt to reach Canada, and the name reflects an incident in that flight. The name has been the subject of debate for years, and it is a reminder that the landscape carries painful history.
The Chief Joseph Scenic Byway, Wyoming Highway 296, climbs here from the Cody side, and the ascent is steep. The grade reaches ten percent in places, with tight switchbacks, narrow lanes and big drops, and the road then plunges down the other side into Sunlight Basin. It is a spectacular ride, but demanding, and caravans and large trailers are advised to avoid it. The surface is generally good, with the occasional patch of loose gravel, and traffic is light. The road is closed by snow in winter and usually opens in late spring, and snow can return at any time, even in June or September.
The scenery is the reward. The view from the top takes in layered volcanic cliffs, forested slopes, wide meadows and the long ridge of the Absarokas, with clouds throwing moving shadows across the valleys. The air is clear and cool, and it smells of sage and pine. Elk, mule deer and the occasional black bear graze along the road, and dawn and dusk are the best times for wildlife.
Cody, about thirty-five kilometres away, is the nearest sizeable town. It was founded by William F. Cody, the showman Buffalo Bill, in 1896, and has a fine museum complex devoted to the West, along with petrol stations, restaurants and motels. Take a layer, since wind and altitude can make it chilly. Allow time for the descent, and use engine braking on the long grades.