Dante's View is the place to stand when you want to understand Death Valley in one glance. From a cliff on the crest of the Black Mountains, at about five thousand five hundred feet, you look straight down on the salt flats of Badwater Basin, the lowest point in North America at 282 feet below sea level. Across the valley rise the Panamint Mountains, with the snow-capped summit of Telescope Peak, over eleven thousand feet, facing you. The difference in height between the two is almost two miles, and the view is a kind of geology lesson in a single frame.
The road up is a spur of about thirteen miles from the main highway near Furnace Creek, climbing steadily and then more steeply through the rugged Black Mountains. It is paved and well-maintained, with a few tight bends near the top, and the views grow with every turn. Large trailers and long vehicles are restricted near the top, but a motorcycle copes easily. The air at the lookout is noticeably cooler than on the valley floor, which can be a relief in summer, and the wind can be strong, so a windproof layer is wise.
The valley itself is a place of extremes. The hottest air temperature ever reliably recorded on Earth, about 134 degrees Fahrenheit, was measured at Furnace Creek in 1913. It is also very dry, with only a couple of inches of rain a year, though when storms do come they produce spectacular flash floods. Despite appearances, the park supports a surprising amount of life, from desert bighorn sheep on the slopes to the tiny pupfish that survive in isolated pools.
Furnace Creek, Stovepipe Wells, and Panamint Springs have pumps, and the sensible rule is to fill whenever you pass one. Carry plenty of water, wear sunscreen, and plan to ride in the cooler hours. Winter and early spring are by far the best seasons. Sunrise and sunset are the best times at Dante's View, when the light turns the salt flats pale gold and the mountains purple, and the silence is almost physical.