The Talysh lowlands of south-eastern Azerbaijan are the damp, green corner of the country, a narrow plain between the Caspian Sea and the Talysh mountains that run along the border with Iran. Dangyaband, near the village of Haftoni and about fifteen kilometres from Lankaran, sits in this world of rice, tea, citrus and hazel, where the climate is subtropical and the rain heavier than anywhere else in Azerbaijan. After the dry steppes of the centre and the oil-stained coast near Baku, it comes as a surprise.
Lankaran is a town of some two hundred and forty thousand people and the regional capital, with a long history as a Persian and Russian border port. Tea grew here in the Soviet period, and the region still produces it, along with lemons, tangerines and persimmons. The Talysh people have their own language, related to Persian, and their own traditions, including a taste for strong tea, smoked fish and dishes of rice and herbs, such as the dish called plov made with chestnuts or fish. Hirkan National Park, a relic forest of ancient trees such as Persian ironwood, covers the mountain slopes inland.
The riding is easy and quiet. The road from Baku runs south along the coast through flat farmland for about three hours, and the Lankaran plain has narrow, straight roads between fields, with mist in the morning and warm light in the evening. Rain is frequent, particularly in autumn, so carry waterproofs. Surfaces vary, with potholes and soft edges on smaller roads, and cattle and sheep wander on to the carriageway. The mountain roads that climb into Talysh are twistier and have more charm, with forest, small tea houses and views down to the sea.
Fuel is available in Lankaran and along the main road, but outside the town stations are few, so keep the tank topped. Food is simple and good, and a glass of tea in a roadside place is always welcome. Spring and early summer are the best seasons, when the plain is green and the air is mild.