Dana is a village that clings to the edge of a cliff, and from its terrace the land falls away in a great gulf of rock, with the desert plain of Wadi Araba shimmering far below. It stands in the highlands of southern Jordan at about 1,200 metres, a cluster of old stone houses that were abandoned in the twentieth century and are now partly restored, at the heart of the Dana Biosphere Reserve, the largest nature reserve in the country.
The reserve covers a drop from high juniper hills to hot desert valleys, and this range of elevations gives it a rare mix of habitats. Wildlife includes ibex, red fox, and several rare birds, and the reserve has been a model for community-run conservation, with local families running guesthouses, a candle workshop and silversmithing. Hiking trails run down the wadi toward Feynan, where ancient copper mines show how long people have worked this land.
The road that brings you here is the Kings Highway, an ancient route that runs the length of Jordan along the top of the escarpment. In places it follows the line of the old Roman road, the Via Nova Traiana, built under Trajan, and earlier it was a caravan route mentioned in the Bible. Today it is a winding road with long views, passing castles, mosaics and small towns. It is generally well surfaced but slow in places, with trucks, sheep and speed bumps. Wind and chill can surprise, as the plateau is high, and it can snow in winter. Spring and autumn are best.
Dana is small and has limited services, so fill up at a larger town. Aţ Ţafīlah, about twenty-three kilometres away, is a good choice, and Buşayrā, closer, may have basic supplies. Locals will offer sweet tea and cardamom coffee, and the village guesthouses serve simple meals of flatbread, hummus and lentil soup. Bring warm clothing for evenings, since the air gets cold after dark.