Daikanzan is where Hakone's motorcycles go to gather. It is a high lookout on the rim of the great volcanic caldera at about a thousand metres, and in the car park at the summit of the Hakone Turnpike on a fine weekend you will find a few hundred bikes lined up, from vintage Hondas to the latest superbikes, with their riders drinking canned coffee and talking in low voices about the road. The view is the other half of the story. Below the car park, Lake Ashi lies in the old crater, and beyond it, when the sky is clear, Mount Fuji rises in a perfect cone, framed by clouds and mountains.
The road is the Hakone Turnpike, a toll route that climbs from the coast near Yugawara to the caldera rim in a series of bends that has made it one of the most famous riding roads in the Kanto region. It is a smooth, wide road, with long, flowing curves and tight hairpins, and the surface is generally excellent. It has also been a favourite for car enthusiasts and for the Japanese street-racing scene, which means police, speed cameras and noise controls are part of the picture, and you should ride with that in mind. Limits are low and enforced, and weekends see a visible police presence. Ride it with respect, and you will enjoy it far more.
The weather at the top is a lottery. Cloud often covers the mountain when the coast is bright, and Fuji hides for days at a time, usually showing itself in the cold, dry air of winter or early in the morning. A clear dawn in autumn or winter can reward you with a view that justifies the early start. In wet weather the road is slippery and fog reduces visibility. In winter, snow and ice are possible, and the road may be closed or require chains.
At the summit there is a rest area with a restaurant, a shop and a toilet, and vending machines that serve hot and cold drinks, which is the Japanese solution to every problem. The food is simple, noodles and curry rice, and the portions are generous. Odawara, on the coast, has a famous castle and is easy to reach.
If you are lucky enough to catch Fuji at dawn, you will see why so many riders come. Arrive early on a weekday if you want space to park and a view without the crowd.